1. Getting started
A good place to start is a used car listings website such as AutoTrader.co.uk, Motors.co.uk or Motoring.co.uk. These feature thousands of used cars from private and trade sellers giving you a good idea of what you can get for your budget. Choose carefully between private and trade sales: private will usually be a bit cheaper, but you'll have no come back if things go wrong. A trade sale on the other hand will be more expensive, but you'll have some come back if it turns out to be a duffer. Look out for traders masquerading as normal sellers, though – if they ask you which car you're interested in when you call, alarm bells should start ringing.
More information:
Choose a car
2. Where to buy
Franchised dealers will offer top notch used stock, often with very little mileage. Most car manufacturer showrooms have used car areas on their forecourts where they will retail ex-demonstrator cars and part exchanges. Many makers run special approved used schemes – such as Vauxhall's Network Q arm. They sell cars that have been prepared specially and will usually come with enhanced warranties.
Independent dealers will be considerably cheaper than their franchised colleagues because of lower overheads. They won't be tied to one particular marque either so the choice will be larger. Quality of cars will depend on the site – don't expect a mint BMW from a £200 banger yard. There are often bargains to be had though, and you can haggle hard as you'll usually be talking to the boss. Plus, you'll still have some come back if the head gasket goes a week later.
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Car supermarkets- such as Motorpoint or Trade Sales – offer massive discounts on new and nearly new cars. Their pile them high, sell them cheap philosophy means they're a good way to snap up a bargain. There will be little margin in the cars though, so don't expect to get away with market stall haggling.
Private sales are usually cheaper than all of the above – but if the engine spits valves out of the bonnet 10 miles down the road don't expect to get your money back. However, if you're careful and follow our tips you'll save a lot of money and could bag a bargain.
Online auction sites – like eBay – are rapidly growing in popularity with buyers and sellers. Advertisers will write a long description of their car, often mentioning every scuff and scrape, and you bid against other buyers after digesting the pictures and information. If you're really serious, and the car's worth quite a bit, it's a good idea paying the seller a visit to see it in the metal and take a test drive. eBay is used by both private and trade sellers, so know who you're buying from.
More information:
Where to buy your new car
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3. What to ask when you call
You can fill in a lot of gaps when you call a seller. Most adverts – be it online or in the local rag – will have a specific amount of words advertisers can use (unless they're prattling on in an eBay listing). It's likely a lot of information will be missing so ask the questions that weren't covered. Find out why they're selling the car – but take the answer with a pinch of salt. Do you know the mileage or where the car's been serviced? You need to be able to weigh up whether it's worth going to see the vehicle so the more you ask on the phone will make a wasted journey less likely.
The key questions on your list should be:
1. How many owners has the car had?
2. Why are they selling it?
3. Has it ever been in an accident?
4. Has it got any outstanding finance on it?
5. Has it ever been written off?
4. Key checks
It's a good idea to take a friend with you – preferably one with sound working knowledge of the internal combustion engine or, failing that, someone with common sense. They'll be thinking rationally while you're lusting after the car of your dreams! Start on the outside and look for signs of crash damage, dents or dodgy re-sprays. Uneven panel gaps can indicate a prang too.
Make sure the tyres are in good condition and the brands match - you don't want to be shelling out on a new set of boots too soon - and make sure the spare wheel is there.
Inside, check wear on the steering wheel, pedal rubbers and gear lever is consistent with the age and mileage of the car and look for signs of tampering around the clocks. And while you're inside make sure the heater or air con works and the other electronic gadgets are functional.
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Even if you're as about as mechanically minded as Paris Hilton, it's still a good idea to check the basics. Lift the bonnet and check the oil level and ensure there's no milky residue in the fluid. Exhausts can be expensive to replace, so beware of excessive noise, while too much smoke could point to engine problems.
If you can't trust your judgement, motoring organisations like the RAC offer mechanical inspections. These will be far more in-depth than the average motorist could manage and will pay for itself if it spots a nasty surprise.
More information:
Check list
Haynes Publishing
5. Take a test drive
First make sure your current insurance covers you to drive the vehicle. If you're at a dealer they may have a trade policy that can cover the test, but in all cases check. The car should start properly when cold – and try again halfway through the test drive when it's had a chance to warm up. The only way to tell if a car is right for you is to evaluate it in the way you'll be using it. So, if that means driving to work – drive to work, or if you're more likely to be carrying unusual loads, see if they fit. The last thing you want is a car that's not fit for its purpose!
Drive on a variety of roads – and include some motorway if possible. Find a quiet stretch and check the brakes don't haul the car to one side, that the steering turns freely without any noise or vibration and that the gear change is smooth and crunch free. Finally, make sure it pulls away cleanly and there are no vibrations.
More information:
Mastering tradespeak
6. Paperwork – the V5
Paperwork may sound boring but it holds vital clues to a car's past. And none more so than the V5 logbook. This crucial document will tell you how many owners the car's had, specifics about the model and sometimes even its mileage. Without this document the car is not legally the owner's, so if it's missing run a mile. NEVER buy a car without one. Make sure all the information in the logbook matches the car: the VIN number, numberplate, make, model and year of registration should all be the same. In 2007, the DVLA announced that there were a large number of stolen and fake V5s in circulation, so look out. The logbook should have a watermark and fakes have the wrong colour on the Notification of Permanent Export tear-off slip – it should be mauve on both sides, but fakes have one side which is slightly pink. HPI includes a check on the V5, so is well worth considering if you've got suspicions.